Virgil Abloh’s latest is an unexpected departure from past seasons.

An auspicious start to Paris Fashion Week Men’sVirgil Abloh‘s Fall/Winter 2020 collection for Off-White™ presented a renewed take on streetwear-inspired luxury. Eschewing the loud branding and buzzy celebrity model lineup of previous seasons, the show featured a largely neutral color palette and clean silhouettes.

Dubbed “TORNADO WARNING,” the collection offered a series of clean suiting, some of which featured strategically-placed circular cut-outs. Outerwear including a classic trench, belted leather jacket and sculptural bomber were understated, yet luxurious. Ruching added interest to button down shirts, while knitwear ranged from simple (beige turtlenecks) to intricate (several sweaters featured complicated cut-outs of brand’s arrow logo).

Despite its new approach, the collection wasn’t completely devoid of branding — Abloh’s new Off-White™ logo was embroidered on the chest of separates, and knit sweaters took a more intentional approach with spell-out graphics. Lastly, footwear consisted of croc-embossed loafers, western-inspired square-toed shoes and Abloh’s upcoming iteration of the Nike Air Jordan 5.

Check out our backstage look at Off-White™’s FW20 Men’s show in the gallery above, as well as the full collection below.

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